NEWLY SET

The Mandarin Oriental surprises with excellent seafood, Shiki with omakase. Seefeld has gained a wonderful new venue. At IceQ and Bürglhöh, you dine with mountain views. And how differently restaurant branches can operate becomes evident at Altia and Pastamara.

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In mid-2025, conductor and Shiki patron Joji Hattori opened a boutique and saké shop not far from the main restaurant. Behind it, an intimate concept was quietly finalized. Omakase describes the idea that, as a guest, there is little more to do than take a seat, order drinks, and let the experience unfold. In Japan, reservations at the finest establishments of this kind are usually only possible through personal references. Here, a maximum of eight participants may reserve their place in the ceremonial dining sequence with a €150 prepayment; the total price is €298. Or €448 for the luxury version featuring caviar and A5-grade Wagyu beef.

It is well known that in Japan the coast is always within reach and that Tokyo’s fish market is considered the benchmark for seafood. Seen from this perspective, the Shiki team makes the very best of its inland location. The experience is presented by head chef Alois Traint and co-master Ruben Gorcea. The eleven courses — including, surprisingly, freshwater fish — can only be hinted at here. After finely balanced bites such as hamachi with grated daikon oroshi, meat follows: briefly grilled venison prepared as tataki with shiitake and wasabi. Excitement builds with chawanmushi (savory egg custard) with turbot crest and trout bottarga, or lobster paired with the rare citrus fruit sudachi. Sensational nigiri sushi are then crafted à la seconde and served for immediate enjoyment — for example, otoro with yam and chives. It is unlikely to be done better anywhere in Austria. As beverage pairings, the focus lies primarily on sake, with 60 labels listed and served in the house’s Zalto glassware. The wine offering is deliberately small and exclusive, ranging from €49 to €3,500.